When I was out on the trails on a hot July day doing some blazing work and battling deerflies, mosquitos and other nuisances, I thought to myself “who wants to be out in the woods in the heat and humidity of a Connecticut summer?” My thoughts turned to history and a couple of State Parks that have been on my radar for a while – Fort Griswold Battlefield State Park in Groton and Fort Trumbull State Park in New London. When I realized that the museums at both these parks are only open from Memorial Day to Labor Day I decided to make them the focus of my August Trail Talk. I am also including Harkness Memorial State Park as a suggestion for a walking destination nearby that can be added on to your visit.
The beach at Harkness Memorial State Park
HARKNESS MEMORIAL STATE PARK
I arrived early on a hot, muggy July Wednesday and opted to do a counter-clockwise loop of the park perimeter, starting at the rest rooms, where every smart hiker starts! I headed towards the red brick building which is an old carriage house, and all that remains of the Rumrill family estate, built circa 1875. Turning right, I strolled down a dirt drive flanked on both sides by enormous, stately trees. At the end, I followed a mown grassy path to enter the Niering Natural Area Preserve, which is marked by a stone with a carved dedication to Dr. William A. Niering.** The path skirts the edges of Goshen Cove and offers several viewing points, including a wooden hide that looks out onto an osprey nest. The continuing path was wet, but manageable, and returns to the red brick carriage house.
Left to Right: The gravel drive leading to the preserve; the entrance to the Niering Nature Preserve; the observation hide
The osprey nest in front of the hide. I didn't have my good camera, but captured this on my phone
From there I turned towards to water, detouring to follow the boardwalk, which opens onto a quiet beach (no swimming allowed), then continuing along the perimeter of the wide lawn which is scattered with benches for rest and contemplation. Fishing is popular here, and there were several fisherman trying their luck along the rocks. I turned in when I reached the end of the lawn, and followed the path alongside the blooming privet hedge until it looped back around toward the mansion gardens, before heading back to the parking lot for a total of 1.5 miles.
From left to right: The boardwalk to the beach; the coastal path and a contemplation bench; the cutting gardens
The original Chapin and Rumrill family summer homes were destroyed in fires. The existing mansion (named Eolia) was built in the early 1900’s for William and Jessie Taylor, who subsequently sold it to Jessie’s sister, Mary Stillman Harkness, and Mary’s husband, Edward. The estate was left to the State of Connecticut in 1950 and became part of the State Park system in 1952. Mansion tours are offered by Friends of Harkness between Memorial Day and Labor Day on weekends and holidays. Click HERE for more information.
Harkness Park is open from 8:00am to 8:00pm and parking is free to Connecticut residents as part of the Passport to the Parks Program.
While dog-walking is popular here, please note that dogs – even leashed - are not allowed on the boardwalk, beach or in the nature preserve during bird nesting season which runs from April 1 to September 1. For more information, including a property map, click HERE
** Coincidentally, exactly one week later I found myself walking the William A. Niering Boardwalk at the Tannersville Cranberry Bog in East Stroudsberg, PA. It turns out Bill Niering was a renowned botanist who was born in nearby Scotrun PA and was a professor of botany at Connecticut College in New London and director of the Connecticut College Arboretum. After his death in 1999, the Goshen Cove Natural Area Preserve at Harkness Memorial State Park in New London was renamed in his honor.
FORT TRUMBULL STATE PARK
My next stop was Fort Trumbull State Park, which opened to the public in June 2000. Fort Trumbull and Fort Griswold were first built in 1775 on opposite banks of the Thames River to help defend New London Harbor, an important re-supply point during the Revolutionary War. The fort saw its first and only wartime action on September 6, 1781, when the infamous traitor we love to hate, Benedict Arnold, was tasked with attacking the two forts and torching the New London supply warehouses. Over 800 British troops disembarked on both banks and made their way overland to attack. Because Fort Trumbull was only equipped to do battle against a seafaring approach, the 23 soldiers garrisoned at Fort Trumbull spiked the cannons and fled with their Captain to join their brethren across the river at Fort Griswold (more on that later).
While Fort Trumbull never saw battle again, it played an important role in the defenses of the United States, including as a recruiting station during the Civil War, as the first training grounds for the Coast Guard starting in 1915, and as the base for a "Sound Lab" after World War II until the navy suspended its operations in 1997. The property was then transferred to the State of Connecticut, and after a nearly $25 million restoration, opened to the public as a State Park. The project involved removing all the 20th century buildings and restoring the fort to the way it looked after the 3rd fort to be constructed at this location was completed in 1852.
I started outside, walking the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction, heading first down the path towards the water, and making my way to the pier, where several people were fishing. Reversing course, I climbed the stair by the water taxi dock to tour the north battery and finished my walking tour at the Fort. Several rooms are outfitted in great detail with period furnishings from circa 1852. One room, an office, has been left as it would have appeared in the 1950’s. Along the interior walls of the fort there are signboards that tell the history of the fort over the centuries. From there, I climbed to the upper level to take in the views from the rooftop.
From left to right: Fort Trumbull from the perimeter path; an interior room furnished as in 1852; view from a fort window
The view from the top of the fort to the south then panning north up the Thames.
Before leaving, I stopped in at the Visitor’s Center, where there is a wonderful exhibition taking up two floors. There are several short film clips, some interactive activities, and signboards and artifacts taking the visitor through the entire history of the fort from 1775 through the end of the 20th century. When I sat at the interactive screen to try my skill at being a sonar technician I felt a small pang of parental guilt that I never brought my children here.
I gained free entry by borrowing a CT State Parks & Forests pass through my local library. Regular entry to the Fort and Museum is $6 for age 13 to adult, $2 for ages 6 to 12 and free for under 6. If you are 65 or older you can get a Charter Oak Pass which offers free entry to Fort Trumbull, Gillette Castle and Dinosaur State Parks. For more information on how to obtain a Charter Oak Pass, click HERE.
The Visitor Center Museum is open from the Saturday of Memorial Day Weekend through Labor Day, from 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., Wednesday - Sunday. The Fort is open weekends only from Memorial Day weekend to late June. From late June through Labor Day Weekend, the Fort is open Wednesday through Sunday. Operating hours are from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. The park grounds are open from 8 am to sunset, year round. For more information visit the DEEP website HERE
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
FORT GRISWOLD BATTLEFIELD STATE PARK
After leaving Fort Trumbull, I crossed over the bridge to Groton to visit the site of the main battle at Fort Griswold. On that fateful day of September 6, 1781, 165 men defended the fort against the British troops, helpless to prevent the torching of New London taking place across the river. The fort eventually fell, and as the Americans tell it, Colonel William Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British Officer, who then promptly slayed Ledyard with it. According to an account by the Reverend N. H. Burnham in 1899, “like scenes were being enacted in other parts of the fort” in what would be remembered as a horrible massacre. A total of 88 died that day, with many more wounded. After the Revolutionary War, the fort was rebuilt and manned during other conflicts, but eventually became obsolete after the Spanish-American War. It opened as a State Park in 1953.
I recommend starting your visit by climbing the Groton Monument, a granite obelisk built between 1826 and 1830 to honor the slain defenders. The monument stands 135 feet tall, with a tight circular stair of 166 steps to reach the top. From the top, you can look down on the remains of the fort and have a better idea of the layout before you tour the ruins and battleground.
From left to right: The monument dedicated in 1830; the stairs viewed from the top; a view from the monument window. Fort Trumbull is on the opposite bank on the far right
After you climb carefully back down, cross the street to enter the park. Instructions are posted for how to utilize a cell phone tour which acts as an audio guide for the various features. From the interior of the ruins there is a viewing platform that looks down over the Lower Battery towards the Thames River. I noticed a dark passageway in the earthen bank, which turned out to be a route to the battery.
Don't be afraid to take the Covered Way to get from the Fort "interior" to the Lower Battery!
From there, I descended the hill to walk around the grounds. The Ebenezer Avery House sits near the bottom. This house, which originally stood on the corner of Latham and Thames Street in Groton, was where wounded soldiers were transported during the battle for care (9 Avery men died in the battle, 3 were wounded and 3 more were taken prisoner, according to reports). The house was dismantled and moved to its current location in 1971, and is open to the public from Memorial Day to Labor Day on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 4:00pm. For more information, click HERE
Before departing, I stopped in at the Monument Museum, which has on display numerous artifacts. The museum and monument are free of charge and are open Wednesday through Sunday from 9:00 am - 5:00 pm from Memorial Day to Labor Day. The grounds are open daily from sunrise to sunset. Free parking is available on the side streets around the park.
From left to right: the Shot Furnace built in 1843 and intended to heat cannonballs so when shot at enemy ships the ship would burst into flames; the Ebenezer Avery House; Rufus Avery's coat, worn during the battle of September 6, 1781
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
“The Battle of Groton Heights: A Story of the Storming of Fort Griswold and The Burning of New London on The Sixth Of September, 1781.” This is a compilation of reports, including, among others, the title story written by the Reverend N. H. Burnham in 1899, Sergeant Rufus Avery’s Narrative of the events, and a testimony of Avery Downer, M.D., written in 1851 (at the age of 88) about his recollection serving as an Assistant Surgeon to the Connecticut Militia at the time of the battle. Available at the Killingworth Library (or check at your local library).
"Treacherous Beauty: Peggy Shippen, The Woman Behind Benedict Arnold's Plot to Betray America", by Mark Jacob and Stephen H. Case. A fascinating 2012 book intended as a popular biography (i.e. aimed at laypeople, not academics). According to this account, Arnold called off the assault but the orders didn't arrive in time to prevent the massacre. Available at the Killingworth Library (or check at your local library) .
For more information about the park, visit the DEEP website HERE
Questions? Email me at naturenerdsramble@gmail.com. Or find me on Instagram @the_real_nature_renee.
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